the cloth

The boat that carried Manu through the flood held because of how it was put together: the planks, the lashing, the net. A shirt is the same. It is mostly cloth, and then it is how the cloth is sewn. This page is both, with the numbers left in and what each one means.

how to read a count

A yarn’s count says how fine it is. The higher the number, the finer the yarn, and the finer the cloth woven from it. A 20s yarn makes a thick cloth, the kind used for trousers and jackets. At 50s, 60s and 70s the cloth grows finer and lighter.

Construction is the other half: how many threads sit in an inch of cloth, lengthwise (the warp) and across (the weft). The more threads, the denser the weave.

the four cloths

Oxford — for the stripes and the checks

100% cotton. Two-ply 40s yarn in the warp and 30s in the weft, written 40×2/30 — the counts most international shirtmakers use for an Oxford, and a cloth for every season. Two yarns twisted into one make each warp thread stronger. The twist is TFO, two-for-one, which adds durability and a faint sheen. 110 × 50 threads to the inch: a tight, structured weave that holds a collar and keeps its shape.

The stripes and checks are yarn-dyed and woven in, never printed.

Tencel twill

53% Tencel, 47% cotton. 20s yarn both ways, 88 × 72 threads to the inch. The Tencel gives it a cool hand, a natural sheen, and draws moisture away from the skin. The even count on warp and weft keeps the texture even; the dense weave keeps it crisp and structured.

Bounce twill

88% viscose, 12% polyester. 265 denier yarn on both warp and weft, 68 × 60 threads to the inch. The viscose gives a soft, fluid drape. The weight of the yarn gives the cloth body, with a slight stretch that recovers. The polyester is there for one reason: it keeps the shirt from creasing.

Dobby cotton-linen

Cotton and linen in a dobby weave — a small texture woven into the cloth on the loom, not printed on it. The linen makes it breathable and lets it fall easily. It softens more with each wash.

linen, and the blends that follow the season

Beyond these four, mtsya works in 100% cotton, 100% linen, and blends that change with the season. The linen starts at 50s and goes finer, to 60s and 70s. Linen-cotton, where linen is the larger part; cotton-linen, where cotton is. Cotton and linen each blended with viscose or with lyocell. The plain weaves, dobbies and twills change their construction with the season too, and so does the ratio of every blend.

how it is sewn

Fifteen to sixteen stitches to the inch, up to seventeen, depending on the cloth. That is the stitch count of a formal shirt; a casual shirt is often sewn at eleven or twelve. More stitches to the inch make a finer, flatter seam.

the label

The label inside is high-pick damask: a dense, refined weave, woven from fine 50s yarn, tight enough to last without bulk. Its edges are cut ultrasonically, which seals them clean, so they do not fray and need no stitched border.

The care label is 100% cotton, soft against the skin.

Every shirt is made in India. The fish is stitched small at the chest, and the rest is the cloth.